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Minimal Change

After dinner at a friend’s, someone posed the question: if you were independently wealthy, say you have $10million, what would you do?

Someone mentioned starting his own business, someone wanted to become an architect, most people would travel, and perhaps charity. My mind was a blank. I remember at another occasion being asked this question a few years ago, my answer was pretty standard then, travelling, and perhaps charity.

But it doesn’t seem to matter so much now. Of course I still like travelling, as I’m getting ready for my next trip. But it just doesn’t seem to have as much thrill. The past year have changed my perspective, I presume.

Almost exactly a year ago I was confined to a hospital bed, scared, in pain, fearing for the worst.

Continue reading →

A year ago I was in Beijing

2012 has been a … difficult year, starting from the very beginning, in Beijing. Now that a year has passed and a future trip to Beijing may be on the horizon I think back on the difficult trip last year. There were a few fun moments that I will record now before they completely slip my memory…

The taxi drivers of Beijing are an interesting bunch. They are mostly talkative and full of attitudes. Somehow this year taxis have become a scare resource – every day we went to the hospital we had to deal with the anxiety of finding a cab. But when we found one, the driver usually had some words of wisdom to entertain us. Here are a few I can still remember.

Driver #1. It’s Chinese new year, the season of gifting/bribing. Our driver educated us on the proper gifting etiquette. These days, apparently everyone gift with gift cards, only “country bumpkins and foreign devils” (洋鬼子和土老帽) would show up on people’s doorsteps bearing gift boxes/bags.

Driver #2. Having opened the front door for my mom I went ahead into the back. As we settled down in the cab both mom and I realized the driver was glaring at me. “Why didn’t you help the old lady get in the car?” he scolded me. I had fallen short of the driver’s standards for the proper respectful treatment of senior citizens. My mom was as shocked as I (she actually thought I was extra nice for opening the door for her :P)

Driver #3. He informed us that he would only pick up a selected group of customers. Top on his no-ride list are youths who were born after 1990. “They have no manners!” and he thought it ridiculous that they would hitch a ride for just a block or two.

There were also a lot of open chiding of the party and the government. I don’t remember exactly what they said anymore, just the general disapproval.

Chinese New Year has always been a big deal. Fireworks, very loud firecrackers figure prominently in my childhood memories of the “spring festival”. But fireworks have really become huge these days. From new years eve it started and went on for days, not just loud crackers and amateurish fireworks, but pretty fancy ones, and lots of it, almost non-stop. From my bedroom window I had a perfect view of the complex parking lot which was turned into a fireworks central (there were lots of such centrals, at least one each block/apartment complex), where all sorts of flashy stuff went on around the clock. Just when I thought it was quieting down a bit, on day 5 (?) the show got going again with renewed energy – there’s some thing about the 5th day of the new year that apparently calls for extra fireworks, I didn’t understand or forgot why. something to do with certain demons schedules.

On new year’s day we took an impromptu outing to Badachu (八大处). It was freezing cold and the air was exceptionally clear – the sky a rare blue. We took a break from the hospital and drove up to the mountains thinking of a relaxing walk up a desserted path – the highway was practically empty. As soon as we got off the highway onto the road to the park, we encountered the worst traffic jam in Beijing. It was bumper to bumper. On top of that, even the sidewalks were crowded with people: young couples, whole families with little kids and seniors, many holding incense and other religious paraphernalia. Looks like the whole Beijing was there. We scored a parking spot a mile before the park and joined the crowd, marveling at the sheer chance of us stumbling on the most popular place on new year’s day. I realized that the park’s attraction was not in its hilly scenery, but its temples. Apparently temple going has become a major new year’s day activity. We followed the mass into the park and up the path into the main temple, where the faithful (that’s nearly everyone except for the odd clueless tourists like us) burnt incense and made wishes. I probably should have done the same – look what kind of a year I got.

Then there were the far-from-fun experiences at the hospital. Maybe I should write about it. But in reality I just don’t want to think about that right now. I will just let those memories go unrecorded, and hope I don’t have to relive any versions of those again. Now that’s a scary thought, especially now with another Chinese New Year approaching, and dad in the same hospital again 🙁  Let’s hope the year of the snake is gentler than the dragon.

Spellbound: Moonrise Kingdom & Fuzjko Hemming

Having seen a few Wes Anderson movies, from the mildly amusing “Darjeeling Limited”, to the somewhat intriguing “Royal Tenenbaums”, to the downright unwatchable “Aquatic Adventures of Steve Zissou”, I did not have very high expectations of “Moonrise Kingdom”. I did expect another highly stylized drama with saturated colors, oddish characters, and improbable plots. What I did not expect was how much I would like it. What seemed overly done or forced in those other movies somehow worked in this one. It was a bit like a fairy tale.  A self-contained world of childhood on the cusp of adolescence, with hapless but well-meaning adults on the fringe, set on idyllic islands at a long summer’s end.  A world that draws me in. I was spellbound.

Spellbound. I just noticed this word somewhere, and kept thinking about it, was a little spellbound by it. I think that’s what art in all its forms tries to do, to spellbind its audience. The word reminded me of Moonrise Kingdom, and another example from last night: a concert by Fuzjko Hemming.

My mom introduced me to this obscure artist with a strange life story – she’s half Swedish, half Japanese, and came back from being deaf. An eighty-year-old in eccentric outfits, she plays her classic piano pieces in her own way, with her very own special sound. Somehow she makes Chopin sound not quite Chopin, Liszt not quite Liszt, but the sound has a quality to entrance, to draw you in to this world that is Fuzjko Hemming. When the concert started at Palace of Fine Arts it became immediately apparent that this is not a good site for a concert. The sound was not projecting well from the stage, but I could hear all the other noise in the rest of the theatre, and the well ageed seats were creaking all over the place. For a couple of songs, I was rather distracted – the stifled yawns from a couple of rows behind me, a child’s whisper to the right, but most of all, the moaning seats from all directions. Then somehow I stopped being bothered by it, as I entered the zone of her music, the sound that seemed at times effervescent, that somehow tapped into my memories and evoked something… I know not what. And I was spell-bound.

 

Sushi, and commencement speeches

Two unexpected things touched me in the last couple of days.

1. Jiro Dreams of Sushi

You must fall in love with your work

I am not a Sushi lover. I eat Sushi sometimes, but hardly ever have a craving for it. I went to the movie because Matthew suggested it and it has great reviews.

Those reviews are not wrong. It’s a lovely documentary of an 85-year-old man who dedicated 75 of his years to perfecting the art of Sushi making. The movie started with the simplicity of his craft and the story unfolds simply, calmly, yet entrances the viewer continuously. I would not have thought that I would be so fascinated by a) Sushi and Sushi making; b) A man whose single-mindedness in making Sushi borders on obsession – I usually have an aversion to obsessiveness, and having never felt passionate about work, instinctively skeptical of that sort of claims. But the Sushi looked gorgeously enticing, each piece an inviting mystery; and the man is fascinating in his calmness, his love of his work somehow did not make him seem obsessive, but rather gives him a balanced almost zen-like quality. Despite his insane discipline and work ethic, there’s much joy in his work. Before I saw the movie, if I had read that someone would make his apprentice massage an octopus for 45 minutes as preparation for making a sushi dinner, I would have thought this a joke, and not a funny one. But somehow watching this movie made me accept it as just Jiro’s process. Not to mention that I’m now curious enough to be able to imagine the possibility of one day shelling out over $300 for a quick meal of  Sushi. Remarkable.

2. Came across this quote from a commencement speech on Friday:

It is extremely difficult to stay alert and attentive, instead of getting hypnotized by the constant monologue inside your own head (may be happening right now). Twenty years after my own graduation, I have come gradually to understand that the liberal arts cliché about teaching you how to think is actually shorthand for a much deeper, more serious idea: learning how to think really means learning how to exercise some control over how and what you think. It means being conscious and aware enough to choose what you pay attention to and to choose how you construct meaning from experience.

I had to read it a few times. There seemed to be truth and wisdom in this that I had to pay attention. Then I moved on to other things. This morning I happened upon the fuller version on this Brain Pickings article and it made me pause again. Then the later part of the speech went:

And I submit that this is what the real, no bullshit value of your liberal arts education is supposed to be about: how to keep from going through your comfortable, prosperous, respectable adult life dead, unconscious, a slave to your head and to your natural default setting of being uniquely, completely, imperially alone day in and day out.

That’s when I did a search on the man who made the speech: David Foster Wallace, an accomplished writer who struggled with depression for 20 years before killing himself in 2008.

I felt both moved and more than a little lost… or to borrow the writer’s own words, unsure of how to choose what I pay attention to and to choose how I construct meaning from this experience. As I resumed reading the article on commencement speeches, the next speech, given by Ellen DeGeneres seemed to offer a kind of an answer:

So to conclude my conclusion: follow your passion, stay true to yourself. Never follow anyone else’s path, unless you’re in the woods and you’re lost and you see a path, and by all means you should follow that.

Well, I am lost in the woods, therefore I will follow a path if I see one.

Up and down the California coast

November brought cool winds and occasional rain – the California winter is upon us. Somehow we spent almost every weekend on the coast, from wind-swept Point Reyes to the mellow beach town of Morro Bay. Though I like to whine about how cold it is I do realize how lucky we are to live in close vicinity of such natural beauty, and I know it’s not really that cold.

Weekend 1: Half Moon Bay, Big Basin, to Davenport

These are familiar grounds. Once in a while we’d drive down the coast to Pescadero for our favorite artichoke soup at Duartes Tavern. This time we made it as far south as Davenport, another quaint little coastal town with a few restaurants and art galleries. According to Wikipedia:

“The town is presently noted for the spectacular cliffs and bluffs above the Pacific, beaches in between cliffs, surfing opportunities, the cement plant run by Cemex (shuttered in January 2010), and the former headquarters of Odwalla, a company that makes fruit juices.”

There is a stretch of railway along the coast here as well, relic from a different era.

On the way back we witnessed one spectacular sunset, a study of color from Montara beach all the way to Pacifica.

Weedend 2: Point Reyes to Bolinas

It was 10 years ago when we first came to Point Reyes. We were into hiking then and quickly going through our hiking bible “101 Great Hikes in San Francisco Bay Area”. As the book gave a high rating to this trail (the Estero trail I think) in Point Reyes so we brought an out-of-town guest along. Both the guest and us were a bit shell shocked by the reality of the hike – a wind-swept, sand-blasted trail through hostile cow country. There was a television commercial at the time featuring milk from California cows, with the tag line “Happy cows come from California”, and visuals of  cows in bucolic surroundings, looking pretty and content. It was not so on this trail in Point Reyes. The cows were numerous, big, intimidating creatures that stared at us most unfriendly (as if we were going to compete for their grass). After the hike we would take our hiking bible’s ratings with a grain of salt. Continue reading →

rss image test

Experimenting with a plugin to add images to RSS feed. Now let’s see if this picture of Jeju shows up on the feed…

Pulau Dewata

Pulau Dewata is one of the names of the island of Bali, literally, “The Island of Gods”.

I have often recalled hearing a piece of music on CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) Radio 2 back in the late 1980s. Radio 2 was still mostly broadcasting classical music, an odd specialty considering there were only 2 CBC radio stations. They’ve since expanded to 3 stations and have changed Radio 2 to be more contemporary.

The piece of music that I remember (and taped so eventually listened to it numerous times) was a performance of something that the announcer described as being titled “Cool ow de Wata” (ow as in “ouch”, wata kind of like “water”). The Montreal Symphony Orchestra was conducted by Charles Dutoit. The piece was a percussive piece that hopped along, lurched, and then periodically ground to a halt. If I recall correctly it was inspired by gamelan music. The composer was Claude Vivier, a Canadian composer.

Fast forward 20 years and curious as I was about this distant memory I googled Claude Vivier. At first I didn’t turn up anything relevant. There were few recordings of his music and few references to it. At a Marc-Andre Hamelin concert, after the concert waiting for an autograph of my sheet music of some of Alkan’s piano music (how’s that for being geeky), I asked Marc-Andre Hamelin if he was familiar at all with Claude Vivier’s music and mentioned the name of the piece I had heard before (without knowing how to spell it). Hamelin said yes he knew the piece and that it could be played on the piano. He recommended looking in the CBC store or archives since they would surely have a recording for sale. I didn’t pursue finding the recording.

Fast forward another couple of years and a trip to Bali was pending. I googled this piece of music again and more Vivier results turned up. The piece was called Pulau Dewata, in other words “Bali”. There still aren’t a ton of recordings of it. The only free one online now is a not so great performance. I recall the Montreal Symphony playing it pretty well. I highly recommend hearing some original Balinese and Indonesian gamelan music to hear the authentic sound.

If you’re interested in hearing the not so great performance of Vivier’s musc, you can listen to it here.

Jeju and Bali: a tale of two islands (3.3)

Ubud to Amed

Our hotel in the “Ubud area” is called “Payangan Hideaway”. They were not kidding – the place was tucked deep in the hills, up and down twisty country lanes, pass myriad rice fields and banana groves. When we got there it was almost dark and we were seriously wondering if we’d ever find the place.

The view was enchanting. Perched on a hill, the “Hideaway” looks out onto a valley layered with banana groves and rice paddies, palm trees and tropic flowers, with high mountains in the background. It’s such a serene and gorgeous scene – I began to understand  why people like to use the word “spiritual” a lot when describing this area, and often get inspired to do Yoga. Even though I still don’t quite understand the meaning of the word, it sounds appropriate. There’s a sense of timelessness and peace. Steps lead down the steep hill to a little temple by the stream. It was indeed a lovely retreat, and I’m sure there are many, many places just like it tucked in the hills of central Bali. Despite the sprawling commercial development along main roads, I have not seen one mega building or giant boxy resort on the island (I can’t speak about the most touristy areas such as Kuta, which we did not go to). The Balinese people’s good aesthetic taste at least prevailed on this account. Most of the hotels and villas were built with elements of the traditional style, which blends well with the scenery. And the code is that no building should be taller than a coconut palm tree. Continue reading →

Jeju and Bali: a tale of two islands (3.2)

Journey to the northwest. Pemuteran

We did not make it the temple that perched on the cliff at Uluwatu, famous for its “naughty” monkeys (watch out for your sandals and sunglasses tourists!), just a little bit more south. But we went to another iconic temple by the sea, this one sitting on a rock that can only be reached by wading through the water at low tide. PuraTanah Lot has no monkeys, but rows upon rows of souvenir stalls and a great many tourist to match it. It was still an enchanting sight. And the waves, oh the waves looked so grand. Standing on the cliff looking down, it’s an endless cycle of long, smooth waves pushing toward shore, the blue green water forming a perfect pinnacle, picking up a brave surfer, giving him a long, glorious ride (I could almost wish I could surf). By the temple, the waves crash onto the rocks, breaking into a million brilliant pieces. I could stand there watch this scene for hours.

On our journey to the north west, we passed countless villages, rice paddies, temples, temples, temples. Wait, is every building on this island a temple? Turned out I wasn’t hallucinating, there are temple everywhere:

Every family, every compound, every clan or society has a temple; you mention a society or organization and has a temple. In the compound where the family lives there is the family temple. The desa, village  itself must have at least three temples; The clan has its own temple. Subak or irrigation organization has a temple… Bali as a whole has a temple, the pura Besakih or the mother temple…

There are the temples, solid, ubiquitous reminders of the Balinese religion. Then there are the small offerings, pockets weaved with palm leaves, with fresh flowers and incense, a bit of rice and other foods (like candies or a snack bar),  ritually placed for the gods every morning. They are everywhere, in front of every home and shop. And the Balinese people, with flecks of rice on their forehead, and frangipani petals tucked behind their ears, having just had a blessing. If I were a God, I would surely be pleased with such devotion. Continue reading →

Jeju and Bali: A tale of two islands (3.1)

3. Bali

I had seen terraced rice paddies before, in Southern China, not the really famous spots, but pretty nonetheless. I had seen temples and shrines, erected in the names of different religions and beliefs, some of them still being worshipped, some in ruins. I had seen classically cone shaped volcanos, over a flight above Central America, looking both dangerous and alluring. I had seen coral and fish of many colors and shapes, in many tropical seas.

Bali has all of these thing, some more stunning than any I had seen before. It also has a unique culture, its own version of Hidduism, practiced visibly daily by the people. It must be some of the most picturesque culture I have seen. There’s art in their rituals, and way of life.

On the other hand, there are tourists everywhere, and many places seemed to be categorically devoted to them: entire beaches and coastline blocked by tourist hotels; venders lining all the way up to a temple, selling the same trinkets for a song; streets after streets of boutiques displaying artfully designed things that only a rich tourist can afford … I know these are common scenes from many a tourist place, but somehow here they seemed more overwhelming. Maybe I just found it a little too much contrast between the frenzied commercialism and the serene beauty, both natural and man-made. What’s more worrying is the infrastructure, which does not seem to keep in pace with all the development: the narrow roads that are often congested, swarming with cars and scooters, and almost no sidewalk for pedestrians; street gutters full of trash, and piles of garbage on the roadside, next to tranquil rice fields. Without proper infrastructure and planning, are the influx of tourists turning paradise into hell? Continue reading →