Wining, dining, and "Champagne baths"  

Doesn't the title look impressively decadent?

To celebrate Matthew's birthday, we drove up the fog enshrouded Golden Gate Bridge, heading up to the sunny north. On our way we stopped at the charming plaza in Healdsburg, a town at the conflunece of three famous wine regions: Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, and Dry Creek Valley. At Cafe Bovolo we had some delicious sandwiches. After hitting a couple of wineries in Day Creek Valley, we continued on our way to our destination in Ukiah: the "Champagne baths" at Vichy Springs resort.

In wine country around Bay Area, we often encounter traces of a few celebrated literary figures from the past: in Napa there is Robert Louis Stevenson park, where he honeymooned; in Sonoma Jack London's ghosted ranch now serves as a museum; and at the Vichy Springs resort, there is a blurry photograph of Mark Twain, taking in the waters. (Stevenson and London were on the list of noted visitors too, as well as presidents Ulysses S. Grant, William Harrison, and Teddy Roosevelt.)

The "Champagne" waters here, is said to resemble its French namesake, and boasts to be the only warm, naturally effervescent spring in North America. In keeping with its "historic landmark" status, the resort looks much like the way it was when Mark Twain had visited -- indeed, I might have soaked in the very same concrete tub where he sat. Aged and stained with minerals, these are not pretty tubs, but floating in one was actually pretty relaxing. We had come at the right time, in the heat of summer, as the "naturally warm" spring water is just barely warm (at 90F). After half floating, half soaking in the water for a few minutes, I could feel the tiny bubles gently tickling my skin. Getting out gave me some chills, as the water had unknowningly sucked the heat off me, and this was where the heated tub nearby comes in handy. Naturally, a relaxing masage was just the thing to do after the soak.

 

The next morning we had a little hike on the grounds. Following the creek upstream (crossing at various times), we reached a little waterfall, which was not exactly lush, given the time of the year. But it was a pleasant hike, warming us up just well enough to have another soak at the bubbling spring water.

We decided to hit some wineries in the Lake County nearby. Clear Lake is the largest natural lake wholly in California (which is not very large). Somehow it is only recently becoming quickly developed as a wine region. We had read about Ceágo Vinegarden from some magazine, with a stunning photo of its grounds, a Spanish style hacienda set right by the lake. It was also touted as a "biodynamic" plantation, which follows a specific form of organic farming.

The Vinegarden itself was more stunning than the photographs -- I was immediately impressed by the setting on the blue lake, the warm colors of the hacienda, and the peaceful vineyard and gardens. I was not a particular fan of organic farming, until Rong sent me a book last Christmas called "The Omnivore's Dilemma", which really opened my eyes to the simple question of what we're eating everyday. (By the way, it's a really well written book, not boring or annoyingly didactic. Highly recommended to all omnivores!) The animals here seem reasonably happy: chickens roam freely in the vineyards, while the flock of sheep dine contently under walnut trees.

But I really fell in love with the place when we entered the sun drenched courtyard -- there were umbrella covered tables, a tiled fountain, and beyond, a path to the lake through what looks like a small sea of blooming lavenders. I'd never seen a prettier lavender field, and the scent carried by the breeze from the lake was heavenly. Walking through the lavender to the dock, I felt drunk before I tasted any wine. The sun, the blue lake framed by green mountians, the palm trees, the oak trees, the grapevine, and the lavender... what more can one ask? It's California at its best. I declared on the spot that this is the most beautiful winery I have ever been to.



After admiring the grounds some more, we went indoors to taste their wine, which was actually very nice. Though a very new winery, it is definitely not run by newbies. Ceágo is owned by Jim Fetzer, of the Fetzer clan, previous owner of Fetzer Winery, which was sold in 1992 for a reported $80 millon. Well they say that to make a small fortune in wine making, you need to start with a big fortune somewhere else, I guess a big fortune from another winery would do it too. Armed with all that knowledge and experience, (not to mention that fortune), they really made a beautiful winery here. Sipping wine under the big umbrellas in the courtyard, we had a very lovely lunch.

Later on, we drove to another winery, Langtry (named after a British actress who started a winery here a century ago). But by that time I already had way too much wine (and sun). I was not able to taste another drop of wine, which, according to Matthew was good. So we came back with quite a load of supply, and fond memories. Compared to overly crowded Napa, or even Sonoma, the lake county and the Dry Creek Valley seem a lot more laid-back and relaxing, and also prettier. It is an extra hours drive, but if one has the time it is definitely worth it.

See all photos from the weekend (including Matthew's surprise b-day gift).

posted by gz 12:06 下午 留言/